I 3D PRINTED Expensive CS2 KNIVES

Channel:

CS3D

Subscribers:

7,050

Published on November 22, 2023 10:38:28 AM ● Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O100s8qmjcg

Game:

Counter-Strike 2 (2023)

Duration: 8:38

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13

I take you through my process of creating a karambit fire and ice CS2 skin as well as a skeleton knife fade from scratch. I was fed up with prices for skins being so high so i thought i would make my own.

Transcript:
In This video im going to 3d print a skeleton knife fade, as well as a karmabit marble fade fire and ice. Unfortunatly everything didnt go to plan with the skeleton knife especially
but i got there eventually. I have only just started experimenting with vertical printing so this is my first kind of go at it, its obviously not perfect and it didnt come out as well as i wanted but
here is my whole process anyways. I started off by printing a miniture skeleton knife to see if the vertical idea would work.

What i didnt mention was these tiny little holes that had starting appearing, this was the beginning of a huge under extrusion problem i would face in my later prints. I really did push my printer speed
up on this so i wasnt worried at this point, i just wanted to see if it was stable enough.

Anyways on my first attempt i printed the knife with only a support halfway up supporting the big hole just to give it stability as i was worried it would fall before reaching the tip.

Eventually it shifted the knife so much it just started printing on air so i stopped it and as you can see this completely failed. I went back into cura and changed the overhang angle to 10 degrees.
obviously my ender 3 pro can handle a 10 degree slope, this was purely to force it to generate side supports to prevent it from oscillating during the print. And.. it worked! This absolute beast came off
and i started trying to get the supports off. I say trying because these things were welded to the print i literally had to use all my strength to try and snap them off but we got there

After cleaning it all up I Put on a coat of filler primer, I also sprayed the karambit while i was there because i had this printed before i started. The idea behind this is a pla print (especially
with my under extrusion) has loads of surface imperfections. the filler primer fills in the valleys, but also creates its own uneven surface. But filler primer is A LOT easier to sand off than PLA,
so thats exactly what i did. After getting a smooth coat i applied normal primer to help the paint stick, also to give it a grey undercoat since thats what can be seen at the bottom of the blade. This
is however where i made another mistake by skipping a base white coat. The grey meant the colours i sprayed on with the air brush faded loads which ruined the initial effect. I still think this came out
pretty well though, especially after i had added the electrical tape handle. This was pretty easy to do, i just used a scalpel to slice the tape in half and wrapped it around; unfortunatly it did leave
loads of bubbles. which i squished out. The last step is using the goated silver sharpy. This thing is so easy to use its literally just a marker pen and it really brings it to life, making the knife look
like it has a sharpened tip.

In retrospect, i think some red and purple would have worked really well too. I was going off an image from csgo where the fades werent as vibrant, in CS2 they are way more colourful so ill make sure to
do that next time

Next up is the Karambit fire and ice. this is a particularly special skin costing almost 10k which is just insane and yes thats real money. Its actually a marble fade which usually look like this with
random distributions of red, blue and yellow but there is 1 pattern out of 1000 different seeds that has only blue and red with the red coming out this far and it does look pretty cool but just why
would you pay that much unless you are trying to make a profit its just crazy to me

For the karambit I also filled and sanded it to bring out the smooth surface. Great tip here: my friend has a food dehydrator that we used to dry the paint and it worked really well like we could dry a whole
coat in less than 5 minutes. Hes also currently working on converting it into a filament dryer which improves the quality of the filament and in turn the quality of the prints.
I did notice the fillar start to dissolve during wet sanding so i switched to dry sanding. once i got it nice and smooth I used a brush to do a base coat of black all over the blade and handle,
hoping it would give the blade that dark depth that you see on the marble fade knives. I also did a second coat just on the handle because it was a bit patchy. After that i sponged on some blue carefully

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