Nvidia Shield Controller P2570 Clean up and Exploration
0Hello Guys and Gals Today I am going to take apart the Nvidia Shield Controller part number P2570. Below is information I gathered during the disassembly and cleaning of the devices.
Battery Numbers
LC18650-2200mAh
Rating 3.6v 2200mAh 7.92Wh
MC22150406224M (barcoded)
Controller Model Number P2570
Possible Replacement Batteries I have located so far.
CS-NSP257SL 3.7V 9.62Wh 2600mAh
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Replacement-NVIDIA-Shield-LC18650/dp/B07PCL494C
I also in my searching for parts found this bit of information regarding the Joystick Drift issues.
https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B07NM7GW91
"Used these to fix my stick drift that everyone else seems to have on their 2017 Nvidia Shield controllers....I used other controllers with my Shield...but none have the extra features (touchpad volume, microphone). And a new controller is way too expensive...and according to Nvidias site...the replacement would likely have the same problem.
SO.....(do this at your own risk.....I watched a video)....I dissected one of these, got the replacement part out, and did the same to the Shield controller, putting this new piece inside (one of the two green things on the side....take the white wheel out of the inside of it. The one inside the Shield controller is black. Toss it.) This was WAY easier than desoldering the old one out, and soldering the entire new one to the Shield. Problem solved, AND I have more replacement pieces the next time another axis starts getting stick drift. Cheap fix. Though you may want to get the kit from the same seller that has the screwdrivers included, if you need them. THANK YOU!"
This was in a review for replacement Joysticks on amazon. Apparently he found a way to swap the parts from one analog joystick to another and in doing so fix the drift issue altogether.
I also located something about the Right Trigger getting stuck.
"I also have the 2017 controller, and had the same issue with the right trigger. It was drifting when I checked out the input with the built in input viewer app. I seen to have fixed my issue by carefully opening the controller and pushing the pin arm for the potentiometer back into the correct position. Years of repairing cell phones payed off finally. It seemed as if the mechanism from the outside (orange part) had pushed in towards the inside, and with a little finesse I was able to get it back into the correct position."
Seems he was able to repair it by fixing the pin arm for the potentiometer.
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