Tools for BGA and SMD rework #2 reballing, IR rework station, flux and profile development
83A detailed overview of tools you need to build for yourself an electronics workbench for SMD and BGA rework. In the video I go over both the positive and the negative side of the equipment I own, so that you know what you should be looking for when you buy your own tools.
Furthermore, I discuss the financial aspect of BGA reflow and BGA reball, in particular the reball of GPUs.
FLUX and SOLDER PASTE:
Amtech NC-559 is an excellent flux for SMD and BGA components. The Amtech flux is best to be acquired directly from an Amtech-certified reseller, otherwise you most of the time get cheaper aftermarketed products instead of the real Amtech flux.
Also, one has to take care about the expiration date, after which the chemical properties of each flux degrade substantially.
Kingbo RMA-218 tacky flux is good for reattaching the solder balls.
Both of these are high quality fluxes for SMD and BGA rework. If you want to do reballing, you will need both of these. For removing the BGA, one use the Amtech NC-559, and for reattaching the balls, use the Kingbo RMA-218.
For light SMD soldering liquid flux is good, but I found via through tests, that for BGA rework liquid flux is not providing adequate removal of the oxides, and it evaporates way too quick.
Solder paste is rather expensive, so buy it only if you actually need it for hot air soldering, and you have the right spatulas and the stencils for it.
Working with lead-free solder balls and solder paste is rather difficult, so I prefer the lead containing alloy (Pb37Sn63). However, it is really important to know, that the flux and especially the solder paste are toxic! Handle these with care, and do not let it get into the hands of children!
DEBALLING and REBALLING STATIONS:
I use two different stations for the two different processes. For deballing the flat Honton deballing station is very useful, and for reballing I use a spring-loaded tool with two handles, which accepts 9x9 cm stencils. Probably buying directly heated stencils would have been a better idea, but for those you need an ultrasonic cleaner to remove the flux residues from the stencil before you use it. Do not buy a large stack of stencils, but instead buy only those, which you actually use even if per piece they cost more than a large stack, because you will not use even 1% of those stencils.
Do never heat up a stencil which is not meant for direct heat, because it will deform, you have to throw it out and buy an other one.
SOLDER BALLS:
Buy the lead containing solder balls, and not the silver (Ag) containing balls, because those have a higher melting temperature and in general are more fiddly to work with. Since shipping is expensive, buy large containers of at least 250.000 balls. Realistically you will not be able to work with solder balls smaller than 0.5 mm without having a good microscope.
Magnification is a must-have for rework below 0.5 mm.
Since most GPUs and chipsets use the 0.5 and 0.6 mm solder balls, it is enough if you keep only those on stock.
IR and HOT AIR REWORKING STATION:
Honton HT-R390 is a combined station with strong similarity to the high end industrial BGA machines. It uses hot-air nozzles for the concentrated heat focused on the GPU, and ceramic IR heating plates for preheating the PCB to prevent sagging caused to uneven heat-expansion. I bought this station because the experience I made with really high end reworking equipment. Namely, when I was still a young student and had to finance my studies, I was working in a side job for a small single-board custom-PC manufacturer, and they have used such machines with great success. Those high end stations also had optical alignment for the BGA chips, but hobbyists or small repair shop cannot afford those, and they take years to pay for themselves.
Even one of these smaller stations uses around 3KW of power, which is pushing the limits of a standard single-phase household 16A fuse even on a 220V or 230V circuit, so you cannot have other machines on the same circuit, otherwise your breaker will shut off in the middle of your profile, which is very annoying.
Although this Honton HT-R390 turned out to be a good machine, based on the current market I would no longer invest considerable time and money into such equipment. Instead, one should buy a small JBC or Weller hot air SMD station for laptop and mobile-phone repair.