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Napoleon visited Suez in late December, both to inspect fortifications and to trace the route of Ramses II’s canal connecting the Nile to the Red Sea, following it for 40 miles until it disappeared into the desert sands. He also announced his wish to visit Mount Sinai ‘through respect for Moses and the Jewish nation, whose cosmology retraces the earliest ages’. Some companions and four other savants came with him, as well as his guides. ‘We travelled fast,’ recalled Doguereau, ‘the commander-in-chief left Cairo at the gallop, and we urged our horses on at full speed so that they arrived out of breath.’

It was on this sightseeing trip from Suez into Sinai on December 28 that Napoleon appears to have come as close to death as he ever did in any of his battles, after taking advantage of the low tide to cross a section of the Red Sea.* ‘We reached the far shore without difficulty,’ stated Doguereau, and the party visited the so-called Spring of Moses and other antiquarian sites, but having lunched and watered the horses at the Nabah wells

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